Originally Created For: Unorthodox Travel
Author: Mariam Amini
Original Article Link: Albania Destination Guide – Unorthodox Travel
Albania is a great example of a country with wonderful landscapes, welcoming people and a truly rich and fascinating history. It’s also a great example of a country often overlooked.
When you think of the Balkans, it’s easy to imagine Croatia’s glistening coastline. Maybe you picture the fjord skyline that makes up Montenegro’s stunning Bay of Kotor.
I see all of these things when I think of the region, and yet it is Albania that undoubtedly stole the show during my recent travels through the Balkans.
We spent 6 weeks exploring the towns and cities that make up this charming multifaceted state, starting down south in sunny Sarandë.
Sarandë
A resort town of the Albanian Riviera, Sarandë is stretched along a horseshoe-shaped bay. It is everything you envision when you think of a classic holiday.
Constant hot weather and beaches. Infinite places to eat and drink. And a very laid back feel. I’ll admit, it is a bit of a tourist trap. But at least you know exactly what you get.
The vacation vibe aside, there is still plenty to see and do nearby, such as a walk up to the clifftop castle, or scuba diving excursions to old shipwrecks and caves.
Butrint National Park is an uncontested must, with its gorgeous aquatic views and ancient city ruins that once housed Greeks, Romans, Ottomans and even Venetians.
As is The Blue Eye, a natural water spring that is 30 minutes away by car. Though many divers have braved the spring, its actual depth is still unknown to this day.
There are also well-known trails that wind along the forested mountain side, so it is entirely up to you how long your visit to The Blue Eye can take.
Gjirokastër
Gjirokastër came next, where we spent four nights at the beautifully renovated Hotel Musee Boutique.
Nestled between a luscious valley, the city is known for its remarkably preserved Ottoman Old Town.
The picturesque corners and cobbled streets here provided an animated old world feel, and there is endless history waiting to be unravelled.
Gjirokastër’s hilltop castle houses two museums. The grounds are refined in some places, and raw and unkept in others, and the complex itself can take hours to roam.
There are also 18th-century Ottoman houses that have been converted into museums. Their past owners range from dictators and authors to the Gjirokastër historic elite.
The ruins of Ali Pasha’s Bridge come with an enjoyable and scenic hike, and finally there is the Cold War Tunnel which is as immersive as it sounds.
Berat
Afterwards, we headed for Berat, Albania’s famed “city of a thousand windows”. It carried a somewhat similar charm to Gjirokaster, but without the valley feel.
A few days here is probably all you need. In this time, the authentic Ethnographic Museum and eclectic Berat Castle are not to be missed.
Within the town-sized castle, you will find churches, ruins, restaurants and shops, as well as locals who still reside within the castle’s ancient walls.
As far as dining is concerned, you won’t regret an evening at Lili’s Homemade Food. Lili is a Berat native who’s turned his home into a garden restaurant.
The atmosphere is intimate, and the food is sublime. Envision a heartwarming evening, as you share laughs and raki shots with your fellow diners.
Tirana
From Berat, we moved to Tirana, and it’s safe to say the Albanian capital surpassed all expectations too.
As far as capitals go, it had all the things you’d typically expect. It had retail. It had culture. It had bustle and a vibrant rush. But it was also down to earth. It was easy going and relaxed.
Furthermore, the city presented a chance to regroup and recharge, since by now the travel burnout that comes with any long-term trip had hit.
On the days we did explore, we spent afternoons in quirky cafes alongside central museum visits, of which there are plenty to choose from.
We went on walks through the Grand Park, a superb verdant oasis that was truly quite vast.
However, of all the attractions Dajti Ekspres was probably the most exciting. Situated just outside the city centre, this is the longest cable car in the Balkans.
It came with towering thrills and luscious vistas, and we were pleasantly surprised to find a resort-like estate, with activities such as mini golf, horse riding and ATV rentals at the top.
Shkodër
Our final two nights in Albania were spent in Shkodër, a delightful lakeside city further up north. The lake is shared with Montenegro, but it can easily be enjoyed on either side.
Since we had PCR tests and other travel preparations to sort out at the time, our initial exploration felt a little rushed.
Even so, in the space of mainly a day we managed a trip up Rozafa Castle, an impromptu boat ride and multiple visits to the town’s beautiful selection of mosques.
The boat ride was last-minute and entirely spontaneous. We were directed towards a specific waterfront restaurant, and told to enquire about the excursion there.
Within 20 minutes, a local helmsman arrived. During this time, we were sat down, rested and given complimentary drinks.
I feel that these two interactions defined my experience of the Albanian way of life. First, there is the efficiency with which things can often get done.
It comes in the form of a can-do attitude mastered by the locals, and means everyone simply gets right to it.
Then, there is the hospitality that comes in boundless quantities and varied, unique ways.
The fact that this warmth comes from a people who have historically already dealt with their fair share of persecution, is only a testament to the strength of their will and hearts.